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Talk in Tokyo’s fashion scene has lately centered around the need to find and support a new generation of talent the search for the next Sacai has come up as a subject more than once this season. Designer Maiko Kurogouchi made a compelling case for herself with the second Paris presentation of her eight-year-old label Mame Kurogouchi. (Mame, the Japanese word for bean, is her childhood nickname).




Kurogouchi draws from the technical skills she honed at Issey Miyake and her passion to preserve Japan’s long history of handcraft. She leaned deeper into the latter this season, experimenting with a new creative method: Every day for three months, Kurogouchi took one photograph, sketched one look, and jotted one note in a black leather journal. Flipping through the dog-earred pages, Kurogouchi explained, the entries are somewhat quotidian: A Polaroid of the white toast and brown egg she had for breakfast, next to a sketch of a roadside flower that struck her fancy, its petals pressed into the paper, as well. “But later, it helped me to go back and see the patterns of my thoughts,” she explained.